Follow that carrot
The Valley of the Nobles
24 November 2006
Our next destination was the Valley of the Nobles which lies in the hills above one of the local villages.
There has been talk about moving the villagers so that the area can be properly explored, but this is Egypt and that could take forever to achieve.
For the moment we were immediately surrounded by children all announcing that they would see us tout de suite to sell us things. A phrase meaning in a minute that had obviously been used by many an exasperated French visitor.
We had remarked that a lot of children would approach and say: Hello what's your name ?. If you replied and then asked them the same question they didn't know what to say and I rather wondered if English visitors had led them to believe that this was how you said: Hello.
I could imagine lots of old ladies patting kiddies on the head and saying: Hello what's your name ?
Mina gave us his last talk of the trip explaining that whilst the royal tombs tended to be all gods and battle scenes, those of the nobles (which would have included anybody of rank in the civil service) depicted family scenes and everyday life.
Our ticket allowed us to visit two of the tombs which appear to be simple holes in the ground from a distance.
Once again you cannot use camera equipment inside
The first tomb was that of Rekhmire a dignitary during the reign of Thutmose III. The attendant stamped his foot on the floor near the entrance to indicate the chamber underneath where they had found the mummies of the family.
The colours are stunning, showing various animals as well as typical scenes of hunting and the gods.
The second tomb was a little higher up the slope and belonged to a Mayor of Thebes: Sennefer. We had been warned that it was a cramped and steep descent and some of the steps were uneven in height. Bent double we went down.
Mina had said that we would find paintings that you would have thought had been finished yesterday - and he was right.
The four pillared chamber is ablaze with colour, the ceiling covered in grape vines. The scenes take the viewer though the various processes of moving on into afterlife. The cortege makes its way to the tomb, and Sennefer is then brought before Osiris and judged.
You would need to be pretty well read up on things I think to understand everything that you were looking at. For all that it is possible to appreciate a great work of art.
Climbing back out into the sunlight we were set upon by the local children who wanted us to buy things - or just give them presents. Thankfully Sonia had a seemingly never ending supply of pens to hand out.
We reunited with our donkeys and took a last look from the desert towards the green band that marked the Nile, then somewhat timidly we started the descent down the hill and alongside the mortuary temple of Ramses II and out across the fields of sugar cane.
We cantered our way down the pathways and turned along one of the irrigation canals. Eventually we reached the river bank but spent a few minutes trotting through the streets looking at the houses and shops. What I enjoyed was the fact that we were getting the chance to have a look at ground level at a walking pace but without being hassled.
In the evening JJ, Sylvain, Sonia and I were heading to the Son et Lumière at Karnak but before then we had a few hours so JJ and I went for a walk along the quay side.
Within seconds we were invited to take a calèche for only 2 Euros. We walked on. 2 Euros there and back. We walked on. 1 Euro there and back, where are you going Monsieur?
JJ and I just laughed. We weren't going anywhere in particular just for a walk. Ok Monsieur in that case 5 Pounds there and back. But we don't know where we are going - not a problem Monsieur. 5 pounds is very cheap.
It was JJ who finally nailed him - you do realise you are wasting your time and MONEY, he said in his best English. At that the cabby did a speedy wheelie and fled off back towards town.
The show at Karnak is nowhere near as good as the event at Philae. The sound system is muffled and the story long and droans on a bit.
What you do get though is once again a chance to be in the temple at night without thousands of others trying to go here and there. In the hypostyle hall you could really sense the immensity of the columns. Just a shame about the sound - I recall that it wasn't any better in English. Given a choice - go for Philae.
Late back aboard our boat we found our meals waiting for us - as well as everyone else. The farewell gateau couldn't be carved until all the group were ready.
The mood was cheerful but tinged with a touch of sadness. It was all but over and tomorrow we would be heading back to the French winter.
For now though, mine's a Stella, which is an Egyptian beer and not something that can be picked up at Champion.
Getting packed
25 November 2006
Last morning - last balloons
I got up at the crack of dawn to try and take some film of the balloons coming in over the desert. Now that I had the time to watch them I could see the flames inside heating the gas to help control their descent.
It was rather a shame that the buildings and trees along the river obscure the sun.
I thought I might have had some nice shots of the sunrise through the palm trees but it was nothing spectacular by the time it had reached that height. Never mind, it was enjoyable just watching the balloons.
Whilst I packed the bags and paid all the bills JJ went off with some of the others to visit the market. I knew that he wanted to pick himself up one of the Egyptian water pipes or Chicha as it is called in French. Not surprisingly he returned with one in a bag.
The asking price had been 150 pounds but Hantar, who seemed to know all about these things, got the price reduced to 110 pounds which he declared was a bargain. A chicha in France could cost you 40 Euros which is more than double JJ's price.
We have bought the proper charcoals for it and JJ picked up some flavoured tobacco at the airport. For the moment he has been using the banana and it certainly gives off a rich smell.
The only thing - he doesn't get his nicotine fix as it all gets filtered out in the water. We laughed last night after he had spent an hour smoking his pipe then had to have his cigarette last thing before going to bed.
Everything packed we all said goodbye to Mina and boarded our coach for the airport.
Luxor airport is very different from my last visit; open, clean, bright and expensive to eat in. Just like home.
The flight back to Orly was a little late getting in and about half of us took the bus into Paris. After a week in Egypt without brilliant toilet facilities but without any problems, JJ was immediately in need of them the moment we set foot in France. Everybody ready - all save JJ.
Six of us were in fact catching the same train from the Gare du Nord so we installed ourselves in a brasserie for a drink and a bite to eat before joining our train. Rather than split up to our alloted seats we took up residence in our carriage.
Forty minutes later JJ and I were saying goodbye and preparing to get off at Arras.
Sandra and Peter had left our car back in the parking next to the station and under an hour later we were home.
It took us a few days to get over the return to grey skies and cold weather with Jean-Jacques particularly miserable for the first half of the week, but as the photos have been worked on and the video started he has come round a bit.
As I finish here he is downstairs working on his own web pages so that we can share the experience with the others in French. It also gives us a chance to use more photos than normal.
Even if you don't read French go take a look at the next batch of photos.
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